Hey, Alex is home! I don't have to talk to myself in the evenings anymore! We sure did miss him. When he stumbled in the door, all he wanted was sleep. But we pinched him when he dozed off and demanded he entertain us with MORE stories from home.
Now I can return to slow mornings with Camille, both of us in our jammies and one drinking a ton of coffee. (I've told her she should cut back but she just waves me away with her jittery little hands)
The friend interview went well on Friday. I like her even though I think she LIES.
She suggested we meet in the middle of the Place des Vosges and I was more than happy to do so; I haven't been there in awhile and its perfect symmetry and squareness makes me feel safe. I could spot her a mile away, wearing the bright colors of an American amidst the sea of Frenchie black and gray.
Place des Vosges
San Francisco Mom has only been here a week and is enveloped in the "What the hell just happened?" haze. Her first question to me was "How do you keep up with all your laundry? The washing machines are so TINY." I told her I keep up by more or less devoting my entire life to laundry, doing at least two loads a day and scheduling all other events around our need for clean socks. It's not a glamorous life but you do what you have to do when your washing machine is the size of a breadbox.
(Mmmmmm.....bread.....)
I liked her. But then I asked her where she lives and that's when the LIES began. She said, "I live here, on the Place des Vosges, like right there" and pointed at one of the perfect buildings.
"Yeah, right." I said. "And I live in the Louvre. And on top of the Arc de Triomphe. My summer home is in the bell tower at Notre Dame. Ding dong, ding dong, all summer long..."
She said, "No, really. I live right there" and pointed again. This cannot be true, thought me. No one really LIVES on the Place des Vosges, do they? Place des Vosges is a tourist attraction, (it's a perfect square, huzzah!) not a real place. It's a place to dazzle vacationers carrying expensive cameras, not a place for grocery hauling and toilet scrubbing.
Yes, I know Victor Hugo lived there for a time but surely the city made an exception for him. I assumed they were keeping the rest of the stately buildings unoccupied, for when kings and queens come back into fashion and need somewhere to live.
Anyway, she still claims it's true but I am suspicious and will eye San Francisco Mom narrowly until I see her apartment for myself.
It's funny how you come to accept the way things are. It takes about a year, but eventually the craziness just feels like everyday life. Take the grocery store, for instance. The grocery store and I made peace long ago, even though shopping continues to border on chaos. I've learned to only go at certain non-peak hours of the day. If it's approaching the mid-day or evening rush, I don't go near the place.
As I walked through the grocery store last week on stocking shelves day, I realized I'd never taken a grocery store picture. Here's a picture of the widest aisle. This was taken at a non-peak hour, super early in the morning. Picture it with about a hundred more people, grumpy and pulling shopping caddies, in just this aisle alone and you'll get a sense of the hell that awaits you if you wander in stupidly at noon. You WILL trip and fall on those stacked boxes of yogurt (at least, that's what I'll do).
All I had on me was my iPhone and I was trying to be subtle so forgive the poor composition and quality. This next picture, however, is blurry for a much more awesome reason. Just as I took the picture, I was PUSHED OUT OF THE WAY by an employee passing behind me with a large box. And that is why I love this picture above all others. It sums up my sad feelings on grocery days.
We celebrated American Mother's Day (Frenchie Mother's Day happens at the end of the month) in the traditional way. You know, by visiting a cemetery. I am by far at my happiest in Paris when I'm out and about seeing something I haven't yet seen. So for Mother's Day, when Al asked me what I wanted to do, I said, "Let's go see Serge Gainsbourg's grave at the Montparnasse cemetery!" I'm not sure why the saccharine Mothers Day holiday made me think of the very un-saccharine Serge Gainsbourg. Maybe it's the public drunkenness?
As we walked towards Montparnasse, Alex watched in awe as I aggressively pushed the stroller through the crowds on the sidewalk. He gasped as I charged across the street on a red light. He worked hard to keep up as I maneuvered through the neighborhood at lightning-fast speed. Then he said, in his impressed voice, "My God, you're so PARISIAN now." He thought I was a red hot mama in that moment but, baby, that's just my day-to-day.
We were happy to finally pay our respects to Serge; he's close to both our hearts and not just for that one song with all the moaning. Little known fact about Serge is he was born with a different name, an incredibly awesome name according to us. Our man Serge was born Lucien Ginsburg. I wonder if anyone ever called him The Loosh.
His grave is covered with cigarettes and used metro tickets. The cigarettes were obvious but the metro tickets? What's the deal with that? Did Serge regularly find himself a few tickets short when out and about in the city? Did Serge have a used metro ticket fetish? (who doesn't?) Are the visitors to Serge's grave just a bunch of litterbugs? Our theories were plentiful.
(As an aside, did you know if you come home and Google "used metro tickets on Serge Gainsbourg's grave" you will actually get an answer within 2.5 seconds?! I love you, Interwebs.)
((As an aside to the aside, the answer is it's a tribute to one of his earlier songs, Le Poinconneur des Lilas in which he sings about being a ticket puncher at a metro station.))
The rest of the cemetery was a hoot, as cemeteries tend to be. We saw the graves of Sartre and Beauvoir, two people I often picture sitting at Les Deux Magots whenever I pass by. (In my mind they are holding long cigarette holders and wearing oversized furry hats). We saw the famous Brancusi sculpture, The Kiss, right next to a sign telling us the sculpture was under surveillance. As soon as I knew we were under surveillance, I couldn't enjoy the sculpture anymore. I could only scan the buildings and treetops for cameras because I don't like being looked at when I don't know where the lookin' is coming from.
Stop watching me. I ain't gonna touch the dang statue.
Charles Pigeon's tomb wins the prize for the creepiest but most awesome tomb ever. We loved it.
When Al and I die, please, someone, build us a tomb just like this but put remote controls in both our hands. And put me in a "Team Building Exercise '99" t-shirt. Alex asks to be in his underwear and wearing a Viking helmet.
You know, I should really stop trying to buy things on Mondays. Almost everything's closed on Monday and I just end up walking around fuming. Everything's closed on Sunday, too, but it never stops me from wandering around trying to buy stuff on that day, too. I think it's official -- I will never, ever learn.
She was an ARCTIC WOLF hee hee hee,
MJ



16 comments:
i really really really love your blog.
And you are really really really kind, catbird. Merci.
MJ...another great post..and if that's an Artic wolf I'm a monkey's uncle...ha
that 'bed' tomb is really freaky...I'd have to have the remote too...and our cat in the middle and way more pillows than that poor woman has...
glad Alex the Canadian (yeah) made it back okay...
when we arrive on the Sunday in Sept I'll remember that we can't buy anything for at least two days...should be a blast.
oh we could go to Versailles...no it's closed on Mondays..crap
"When Al and I die, please, someone, build us a tomb just like this but put remote controls in both our hands. And put me in a "Team Building Exercise '99" t-shirt. Alex asks to be in his underwear and wearing a Viking helmet."
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!
Oh man, I had all KINDS of clever for this comment, but mostly I just keep thinking, "Hahahahahahaha!!!"
:D
I love the cemetery photos, I need to get there to see the Serge (I did not know he was a Loosh, too!) and I am totally with you on picturing Simone and Jean-Paul in the Deux Magots.
I'm glad the new friend visit went well, and hmmmm. I did not think real people lived right there at the Place des Vosges, either, so keep us posted about whether or not you get to see the actual crib.
Oh too much fun, MJ. I even read the older posts, too, and laughed my butt off. You sure are such a joy to read. :)
Be wary, be careful, very careful, when it comes to admitting Californians to any gathering!
Hi Debbie! Eh, you'll be fine when you arrive in September just as long as you don't want to make a hair appointment, buy baby supplies, office supplies, a birthday gift, a new pair of ballet flats, or batteries. You WILL be able to grocery shop, at select locations, for about a four-hour window so get crackin' right away.
Thankfully, cafes are open so you can park yourself there all darn day and that's not too shabby.
Hi Karin!
Thank you -- it's always a joy and a pleasure to catch up with the alien parisienne as well. Indeed, the new friend visit went well and I will keep you posted about what I find when I break into her supposed "apartment."
We love you Serge!
You never fail to make me laugh out loud. Even when the weather is crap and the list of faults my French teacher nailed me on this morning was long, very long.
Anne -- I feel your pain. I had a lesson today, too, and I'm staring at her sheet of corrections. Head is spinning a little bit.
I'm glad I made you laugh. Laughing is my favorite.
Thank you for posting the photo of Babybel's sad, sorry excuse for a carnavale "costume." Interesting that she now insists that it is NOT an artic wolf but rather an arctic FOX. At least she wasn't selected to be one of the "phoques."
The petite section teachers must be the resident overachievers of the maternelles. Last year we had a class full of little girls dressed as Little Red Riding Hoods complete with hooded capes, paper-mâché baskets walking hand-in-hand with little boys wearing paper-mâché wolf masks. That would have given the parakeet brigade a good run for their money in the cuteness competition.
Hi MJ. Loving your blog. You are hilarious.
My family and I are arriving for a year in August from Sammamish, which my Seattle friends lovingly refer to as "the country." Is it so pathetic that the thing I am the most worried about is finding someone to color my hair? Please advise. I don't think I can pull off "prune."
Just recently discovered your blog. Enjoying your posts, your writing, and your humor. I live in California, but my husband is French and at some point in the next year we will be moving to France, I'm finger crossing for Paris (but could be Strasbourg or Cannes).
Thanks for sharing your experiences!!
Thanks for the morning chuckle. Glad Al is back to Mama! That tomb - OMG, that's just plain weird! I love your grocery store stories - and the blurry pix from being pushed. are you serious?? And what is with all the stuff in those narrow aisles? Early morning stocking time? Have a great week!
Mindy, I have visited this entry several times and the artic wolf picture just makes me laugh more and more each time. And I love the graveyard pictures as well. I am thinking of amending our wills to have grave marker.
I second catbird. I'm dying to befriend you for real (and your little ones) when you return to Seattle.
ps - the captcha below is imush. somehow, that doesn't have the same catchy marketable ring as iphone or ipod or ipad, but i'm imagining the product nonetheless.
Oh, Christi, I have the colorist for you. I haven't used her myself, preferring instead to butcher my hair with a box of purple hair dye, but whole bunch of ex-pats use her. She's great.
Sammamish is totally the country. It's beautiful country, but country.
Ellie, good luck! Fingers crossed for Paris, but Strasbourg and Cannes are nothing to sneeze at.
Lora -- it's stocking time all the time around here. Rarely a shopping day goes by, regardless of time of day, that the aisles aren't full of boxes and employees who don't move out of your way. Good times.
Cari -- I'm behind you 100% with the tomb idea. You can really personalize it, don't you think? What would you have in YOUR hands?
Paperdoll, wait -- you're in Seattle? You're not in Charleston anymore?
Later, posse.
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