Tuesday, February 15, 2011

No time for words

Coming up with "the words" is the super hard part of writing a blog.  It takes time and concentration (and usually some kind of miracle).  Lucien's on break from school for two weeks and Coco's still hanging around, too, so time and concentration are two things in short supply (along with patience, showers, and anything resembling a snackfood).

Thankfully, uploading a bunch of photos and slapping half-assed captions on them takes no thought, effort, or creativity whatsoever.

So here they come. 

We spent this past weekend with our children, which is out of character for us lately, I know.  We are apparently still vulnerable to their charms.  I announced Sunday morning we were going to walk to the Place des Vosges because there was a photography exhibit there I wanted to see.  The family eyed me warily and asked how much walking was involved, exactly, and I said DON'T ASK QUESTIONS PUNKS to distract them from the fact it's a lot, a lot of walking.  

After about five minutes of walking, Lucien and Alex complained it was too much walking, so I stuffed them into a small cage as punishment for not respecting my authority.


I joke.  I'm actually a kind and gentle leader. This was just Loosh and Al checking out a rooster as we passed through the bird market on Île de la Cité.  I've never seen anyone buy a rooster on Île de la Cité on a Sunday morning, but the gypsies still show up with their sad-looking animals every weekend.  They probably cook what's left at the end of the day.  I'm not sure whether or not what I just said is offensive, but I can definitely tell you it's probably not true. 

Wow, this is going to be a long two weeks. 

The photography exhibit at Place des Vosges is called "Paris, Avant-Après."  It compares fifty photos taken in Paris in 1860 with photos taken at the same spot today. (here's info about the book upon which the exhibit is based, courtesy of Invisible Paris

Guess what?  Stuff has changed.

Here's Notre Dame.  The top view is, of course, the view we know and love today.  The bottom view is Notre Dame behind a really ugly building.  Score one for the newbies!  2011, huzzah. 
 



Here's the rue de Rennes, right here in the 6th arrondissement.  The bottom photo is old picturesque rue de Rennes.  The top photo is rue de Rennes meets Stanley Kubrick.  Oh, le Tour Montparnasse, I appreciate the view from your tallness, but you are ugly.  This round goes to the old folks. 



I forget where this one is, but look, water turned into street!  It's a 2011 miracle. 




This one is Place d'Italie, where Alex and I went last weekend for the Chinese New Year's Parade.  The top one says, "Yeah, Chinese people!  Dragons!"  The bottom one says, "Chinese people?  Chinese people?" 




After the exhibit we went to a cafe.  It was actually Le Café-Théâtre de la Magie (The Cafe-Theatre of Magic!) which is a cafe/bar full of servers who are also magicians, and a theater that puts on regular magic shows.  Our server knew many tricks and dazzled Lucien with a few.  It was sweet and almost made up for the fact we paid 18 euros for a beer, a glass of wine, and an orange juice.  Almost.  Actually, not at all, give us our money back, magic man.


Then we learned something important.  If you stick Lucien on a Velib rental bike and tell him to ring the bell all the way home, people will get out of your way and you can sail through the crowds.  It's so beautiful.


We stopped to pay our respects at these blue doors on Ile St. Louis.  This is where Camille's namesake, Camille Claudel, lived and worked during her most prolific years.  The plaque outside says something beautiful about this being the building where her short career as an artist ended, and the "long night of her internment" began.  Usually when I walk past these doors, I touch them.  Once I tried hugging them but hugging doors is hard.  Passersby probably thought I was due for a long night of internment myself. 

 Sooo... let me get this straight.  You guys named me after a woman who spent thirty years in a mental institution?  Well that's just fantastic, guys, really.


We passed this guy doing bike tricks on the Pont Saint Louis.  That's what I love about wandering Paris on a Sunday afternoon.  You may not wake up and think, "I'd like to see some bike tricks today" but when you stumble across a guy doing just that, you think, "Yes. This is what I want and need."

Alex rode the bike next to Notre Dame while Lucien ran beside him.  It's easy to spot the Loosh in the crowd because we are still some of the few people in Paris wearing red.   


 We stopped to listen to some musicians who weren't very good but meh, we had nothing better to do.

I'm pretty sure I'll miss this when we leave.  There's nothing like wandering around a city where interesting people are doing semi-interesting things on every corner.  It won't be the same when we take Sunday strolls around our neighborhood in Seattle.  I envision those walks going something like this:  "Oh, for Christ's sake, it's just another guy mowing his lawn?  Hey, buddy, where are the bike tricks?  Oh, you say you don't know what I'm talking about? I SAID GET ON YOUR BIKE.  At least go get a guitar and sing me something, you worthless neighbor."

I took Lucien out for hot chocolate today.  He spilled it everywhere in spectacular fashion.  The mug didn't look very big, yet it somehow contained an ocean of hot chocolate.  When the waiter saw what happened, he made a face that clearly said we are horrible, miserable people.  I apologized when he came over with some towels and he muttered, "pas grave, Madame, pas grave..." but I could tell by his face he thought it was VERY, VERY grave.  You can't fool me, Frenchies.  I know you better than you know yourselves.

All right, all right.  Enough is enough.  Gotta go, the kids are about to turn on me.
MJ

18 comments:

debbie in toronto said...

Hey MJ...great post..lots of pictures...me likey

Lucien in his red coat is so cute...you should write a kids book about the boy in the rouge manteau....

you know..in your spare time..

rue de rennes ..where my monoprix is...I want to go to there..follow the giant out of place entirely tower...

and no wonder you rented the bike...it's a long haul to place des voges from the 6th...Cokes knows how to do that journey the right way....

off to Quebec city on friday...I'll say bonjour for you!

Genie -- Paris and Beyond said...

It's going to be a loooooooong two weeks, mon amie, hehehe!

Love your stories and slice of life in Paris with your little tribe... The Loosh is looking mighty fine in his red coat.

Bisous,
Genie

Nicole said...

I can totally sympathize with you over school holidays. They are definitely not holidays for me. In fact, I had such a Horrible Miserable Very Bad No Good Day trying to entertain my two screamy children yesterday that I cried to my husband on the phone and made him take the 6 year old to Centre de Loisirs today. The baby is now silently destroying her sister's barbie village and I have 5 minutes to read the internet! Heaven.

Linds said...

Your sarcasm and humor crack me up. Thanks for the weekend photos and commentary!

Duchesse said...

Loved the pics:)

You're right: there's nothing like a Sunday in Paris, even when it rains:) When I look at all the offerings in Pariscope (some 350+ movies and 100+ plays, for instance), it makes my head spin!:) God, I can't wait to go back there!:)

MJ said...

Debbie!
Indeed, it's a long haul. We walked for hours on Sunday. I love it.

Say BONJOUR to Quebec City for us!

Genie!
Indeed, it's going to be a long two weeks. We're on Day Three and I'm already hanging around outside the school staring at it longingly.

Nicole! Read like the wind! We're going to get through this...

Smart about the Centre de Loisirs. I wanted to give Lucien a break from his school but on second thought... he's loud and it's raining. C de L is sounding better and better. Good luck with the girls.

Thanks, Linds. People like you keep me going through school vacations.

Duchesse -- when ARE you coming back to Paris? There are a million things waiting for you when you do. Oh, such a complicated place! Good,bad,good,bad and on and on.

Bye all, and thanks as always.

TN said...

Haha There's an exhibit at Place de Vosges? Things go on in our neighborhood and I have no idea :-0

I hope you enjoyed walking around our little neighborhood

MJ said...

Hi, T! I always love the Marais. Always, always. It was the other area we seriously considered when searching for the apartment way back when. The exhibit is at l'academie de l'architecture, I think at 9 Place des Vosges? It's free, too!

Sally Tharpe Rowles said...

You named your daughter after Camille Claudel ? Wow, I love that. I totally understand your wanting to hug the blue doors.

I enjoy your blog ... it reminds me of our two years in Paris, some 15 years ago. Both the good & the bad... not a lot has changed. But you are right, your Sunday walks will never be the same once you return.

MJ said...

Hi Sally,
Yep, Ms. Cokes is named for Ms. Claudel. An early love of Camille Claudel back in a college art history class led to many visits to the Rodin Museum, where I spent most of my time in her room, not his. I was pregnant for several of those visits. We knew it was a girl and she needed a Frenchie name so...yep.

Sigh. I know, life will never be the same back home. I guess we better start saving (and saving...and saving...and saving...) for our Paris pied-à-terre. A chunk of us will be left behind, for sure.

Kevin said...

Paris, Avant-Après was just mentioned last weekend in the Philadelphia newspapers’ travel section as one of two great new books on the city. Looks fascinating. That’s great that you got to see the exhibition. Good job keepin’ the boys cultured! Also enjoyed the quick “lesson” on Camille Claudel – what a creative force. Had no idea. Hope you find something new to occupy the kids or at least serve as a distraction for you!

MJ said...

Hi Kevin! I think the book is going to do very, very well. It's an incredibly entertaining concept. The exhibit left me quite philosophical, like "dang, this place is old and so many people have lived their lives here before me, I am but a drop in the Paris ocean..." Then I ate a croissant.

Camille Claudel was a genius, no question. There's also no question she got a pretty raw deal -- she didn't belong in that institution. If she'd lived today, she would have been considered an eccentric ole artist, but she would have been free to make her art for many, many more years. Vive la Camille! I hug your doors!

Bye, Kevin. Thanks for saying hi.

Anonymous said...

Oh MJ finding the right words for a comment is sometimes as difficult as finding the right blog words! One thing I know for sure tho is that there will never be anything on the streets of Des Moines on any Sunday stroll that will match your experiences in Paris but somehow those dog walkers (that always pick up the poo) and retiree power walkers are comforting although I would give anything to just once see even a lame band playing anything on my corner!!! LOL Kathy in DSM

Arlington BigFish said...

My kids were only moderately impressed with the Museé de la Magie, but LOVED the Double Fond -- a magic club not too far from there on the Place du Marché St.Catherine. They were 8 & 10 at the time: don't think it would have much appeal for your youngest, but I expect your son would get a kick out of it.

MJ said...

Hi Kathy. It doesn't matter what words you use to comment; I'm just happy to see you all have been here. It's nice to have visitors.

Thanks for pointing out the silver lining, too -- there will be no dog poo on the sidewalks on our walks in Seattle. That is going to be amazing.

Arlington BigFish! Hello! That's where we were -- the Double Fond! We were at the outdoor cafe/bar attached to it in the Place Saint Catherine. We didn't see a show because I think you're right -- probably not great for Coco but maybe we'll take Lucien solo sometime.

But the servers at the cafe are all magicians, so just by grabbing a drink you can catch a few tricks.

Madeleine said...

As usual, loved your post and, this time, it will have a practical use. I'll be on a flight, arriving in Paris, exactly two weeks from right now. This exhibit sounds great and I've put it on my list. I'd love to know what old Paris looked like. My friend and I are staying in the 5th. If I see a red jacket on a cute kid with an exuberant expression, I'll have to approach his mom and praise her blog in person. I hope that's okay...

Kevin said...

Hi MJ! I’m enjoying the whole farm animal theme ya got goin’ lately, but goat orgies? You can’t just throw that around liberally w/o a little explanation. Was there something in an earlier post I missed? Love the duck lady – quacks me up!
Kevin

MJ said...

Hey Kevin, what the heck is your comment doing way over here? If you're referring to my "Loire Valley Misinformation" post...there is no context for the goat orgies. Our minds are just a little off. We just got to thinking what one would do with all that space and, well.... I dunno, maybe we were influenced by the Salon d'Agriculture.

Quacks you up. heh heh.

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