After being invited to their country home last Sunday, we now know why they're so calm, and why we look fifty years older than they do. Their country home has been in Sophie's family for many decades and is just half an hour outside Paris. They go there every weekend (and many weeks) to sit outside and sip beverages calmly while birds chirp and their children explore a large plot of land.
We, on the other hand, spend our weekends pushing through crowds of people just to buy toilet paper. Sometimes we have to shoo away clusters of tourists with cameras from our front door stoop just so we can go home. We oftentimes have to tell them to move their asses in several different languages. Birds? What the eff are "birds"?
When confronted, Michael admitted that yes, while they love living in Paris, they can't be there very often or they'll go crazy.
The original plan was to join them at the country house regularly, but since Lucien was responsible for some property damage (send us the bill, Michael, huzzah!) while we were there, that was most likely our first and only visit.
Lesson learned -- To enjoy living in Paris, get out of Paris as often as possible. (Consider leaving Lucien elsewhere.)
I want to go to there
I went to see Woody Allen's Midnight in Paris with a handful of The Ladies Monday night. Several of us witnessed the movie being filmed last year; Virginia Mom saw the crew at the Rodin Museum and I (almost) saw them filming outside Shakespeare and Company, but had my head down texting Alex about his missing mouthguard so missed the whole damn thing. When I walked into my writing workshop, everyone was bubbling over with excitement, "Did you see Woody Allen out there? He was just outside with a camera!!" Then I gritted my teeth and thought, "Curse you, Al, and your mouth that needs guarding."
The beginning minutes of the movie are a succession of Parisian street scenes, many of them filmed within a few minutes (if not seconds) of our front door. "We've walked that street a million times" all The Ladies said over and over, nudging each other and giggling. I expected to see a scene featuring Lucien flying around the corner on his scooter and clobbering a few unassuming elderly folks but nope -- guess Woody picked a rare "no scooter casualties" day to film our 'hood.
All of us ex-pat ladies experienced the same feelings as we watched it -- near-debilitating sadness and nostalgia for a place we haven't even left yet. Weird. It smacked me around a little, shook me by my delicate shoulders, made me realize how horribly I'll miss it when we're gone, regardless of how batshit crazy it makes me on any given day.
Lesson -- If you live in Paris for years, then leave Paris, any movies filmed in Paris will be unwatchable until the crushing depression of missing the place has lifted.
My friend and photographer extraordinaire, Chloe Lodge, is finished with her project, the one in which she followed me around and documented my life. Her school's end-of-year exposition was Wednesday night, so I went with Al and a couple of The Ladies. I was famous amongst her classmates in a "there's that damn woman whose face we've been staring at for months" kind of way.
Chloe is an incredibly talented photographer. You can see some of her work, including a few photos of her project with me and her expat women portrait project, at her website, www.chloelodge.com. (My favorite is the one where Virginia Daughter is holding her finger up in the air and telling me Lucien bit it. I'm swinging around with a "He did WHAT?" kinda look while Lucien tries to look nonchalant in the background. And...welcome to my life.)
Al and I went out for a late dinner after the exposition. We ate on a terrasse in the 11th arrondissement, in a neighborhood we've never been before. The waiter was friendly. Our fellow diners were friendly. One neighbor spilled his bottle of wine onto another diner's chèvre salad, and what followed was a very gentlemanly battle about who would pay for it. The spilled-upon man insisted he would still pay for his own salad, much to the spiller's chagrin.
I love witnessing scenes like that one -- people being human and gracious to one another. It reminds me the beauty of life lies in the little things, like spilt wine on goat cheese. Also beautiful was the sound our feet made running on pavement, trying desperately to chase down a taxi to get home at a decent hour for the babysitter.
That was hella deep, bet I just changed some lives right there.
Lesson -- Chloe Lodge is going to be very successful. And people are a lot friendlier in the 11th than they are in the 6th. And wine on goat cheese is profound.
One more. Lucien got in trouble the other day at school for pulling his pants down and running around the playground during recess. We hear it was a dare he was very happy to accept. He got lots of attention and laughs from the kids which, of course, is Lucien's joy. Whenever we bring it up, he laughs so hard he falls out of his chair. He doesn't seem to hear us telling him he can never, ever do that again.
Lesson -- We are so, so, so, so, so screwed.
I see... a rhinoceros, mes choux,
(Total Woody Allen joke.....if you see the movie, worship Adrien Brody for me.)
MJ
P.S. My blog is being attacked by more and more spambots. The spam is getting more sophisticated, oftentimes resembling a real comment. I can still usually tell right away because it starts with, "Thank you. This blog has really helped me" -- total tip-off, since we all know this blog has never really helped anyone.
Anyway, comments may take longer to appear, as I am going to dissect each one with a magnifying glass, wearing a monocle and holding a snifter of brandy.
10 comments:
Ugh, I wish my weekends had a weekend home!!!
Hmmmmmmmmmmm.... spilt wine goat cheese salad...:)
Oh I'm loving those Chloe pics!:)I especially like the one of you guys coming out of the métro, although the bitten-finger one is a close second:)
I totally understand the sadness and nostalgia that beautiful images of Paris bring you... I get that too and haven't lived there yet.
See, I told you before I love your 'hood but could not live there too long (although I remain a Left bank girl:). St-Germain-des-prés is breathtaking, but if I were to live there year-round, the crowds would make me crazy.
We helped friends move yesterday.. friends with three children under the age of five including two 3-year old Looshes...;) That was something! LOL I can still see my friend's face hoisting his end of the freezer up the moving truck with one of his boys running circles around him and the other sitting on his bike yelling: Daddy! Daddy! Come push me!:)
I didn't live in Paris but lived in a French-speaking land very close to France that made me crazy and want to leave it as soon as possible sometimes. The seven-monthiverssary of my repatriation is in a few days and the photo of the charming French chateau made me nearly weep. And then you mentioned chevre!! Then I really cried. Summer is approaching and I have no rose to drink and no warm goat cheese salad to eat with it. I heard somewhere that expats can bring back something like 800 bottles of wine, we didn't because it just seemed like a monumental hassle in the midst of so many other stressful hassles - DO IT! START STOCKING UP NOW! THE LABELS MAY LOOK FRENCH BACK HOME BUT I PROMISE YOU IT'S NOT THE SAME ONCE THEY IMPORT IT AND PUT MORE SULFITES IN! Okay, off to whimper and suck my thumb and stare at my wine fridge and send silent curses at it.
Your blog has helped me a lot. ha ha ha
I think what Paris REALLY needs isn't more goat cheese salad but some Amish Friendship bread. You know, that one that's been fermenting since 1986, never refrigerated once, and passed, like a bad bakery chain letter, from friend to enemy for decades? The French need this. I shall mail you some starter. Take it. Please....
Hi ya....long weekend here watching the start of the French open...makes me remember my long long trip out to Roland Garros in sept....anyway woody hasn't opened yet here but I think I will be first in line...
That country home looks amazing....
Ps your blog has helped me alot
If I didn't have a weekend home, I'd have long ago spilled my wine over someone else's cheese.
Small flat in Paris + real home outside of the city = perfect life balance.
Thank you. This blog has really helped me...
TEST I just wanted to see if you posted this haha!
I checked out Chloe's photos and saw "AI"!
Awesome
TN
Wow Mindy, those photos are gorgeous: congrats to Chloe, and to you for having such a beautiful family. And - is Al going to disappear before we see you guys again? He's nearly gone! I think I need to meet his trainer.
Your pre-nostalgia made me oddly homesick . . . for Seoul. No one has ever called Seoul "the Paris of Asia" (I think that's Shanghai?), so clearly your words must have been very potent to work that kind of magic. Good luck dealing with what is sure to be a painful separation. You still have a while yet, no?
(This is more of an e-mail than a comment, so feel free to doctor, or simply not post.)
Bye,
Jess
Thank you. This blog has helped me so much. Seriously. Work stinks. Morale is as low as it can go. I pull your blog up for a giggle at lunch. Gets me through the day. Bless you my dear MJ.
I thought I would be clever by starting out my comment with Your blog as really helped me... alas others had that very same idea. I will say that reading your blog while at work, does seem to make life worth living again. Work doesn't seem to be doing it. Great post MJ! En route to checking out Chloe's pics.
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